As it were, there are two Tatopanis-one on the east along the Annapurna Circuit, one on the west along the Dhaulagiri Circuit. The day I started my walk I asked bus drivers in Beni to point me towards the direction of Tatopani. Having been living on the road as a traveller for four years now and visiting Nepal for the third time, I wanted to push the envelope and experience places where few tourists go. But, as with any good story, a happy accident would see me walking through the country’s unknown trails. I wondered how much more oddity hides and flourishes in western Nepal. Stone houses held themselves together under a rock, above a river, looking too crumbly to live in, but the inhabitants didn’t seem to mind. Sun-dried shrubs filled the crisp Himalayan air with the familiar sweetness of chamomile. By this point my sanity had already gone a bit hazy, unlike the clear blue skies above the high passes of Dolpo.įurther along the trail, patches of pink grass and purple flora sprinkled the ground. The flightless bird and I stared at each other for a brief moment and I could have sworn it winked at me. If your feet are itching for more adventurous walks and your sense of discovery wants a lick of more culture than Pokhara, wildlife that is beyond your imagination, and terrains more dangerous than the Annapurna Circuit, dare to discover the wild west of Nepal.Īlong the way on my five-week walk along the western Himalayas, a colourful rooster heavy on pink feathers fluffed its roseate plumes at me as though to say, ‘Yes, bideshi, it’s all real’.
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